This item is a DIY kit and as such assembly is required. Painting is optional!
Please make sure you have everything before you start.
- If your wire has an insulator, use a utility knife to make a slit down the length of the wire. Be careful not to gouge the copper wire inside! Flip the wire and repeat on the opposite side. Remove the wire from its protective sheathe.
- Remove any lose or broken strands. This will prevent the wire from fraying when inserted in the holes.
- You will want to twist the wire to get the desired look. You can do this by hand or with a drill at low speed. Place one end into a vice and the other into the chuck of your drill. If you find the wire slightly too big for the holes unwind the wire and pull a few strands off. Once twisted, snip the ends to prevent fraying when inserting into the holes.
- Bend the wire into a V shape with a tight bend at the top.
- Slide both ends into the attenuator, set the antenna aside.
- Apply a small amount of glue to the recessed hole on the body. Insert the red LED Lens into the hole on the body with the flat side down. It should snap in place, but you may need to trim the small lip from the lens so that it will fit inside the recess.
- Apply a small amount of glue the underside of the LED ring at its widest part. You do not need any on the the thin ring. Carefully place the ring over the lens. You may need to press it on with a little force.
- Glue the top trim to the top of the body. Be careful to align the antenna holes.
- Glue the side trim to the body.
- Put a little glue in the two small holes on the top of the body. Insert the antenna into the holes on the top of the body.
- Pull the battery saver tab from the LED
- Push the plug over the small ring on the LED
- Insert the LED assembly into the hole on the bottom of the body. It should be hard to press in which will keep it seated.
- Rotate the plug with a coin to turn the LED on or off.
Checkout this review and build video by Imperious Quartermaster
- Unscrew the plug all the way.
- Dump out the batteries.
- Insert new batteries.
- Screw in the plug and LED cap.
To remove the LED assembly from the body we find a pair of needle nose pliers works well.
We recommend these batteries:
If you like the kit as is you are done! Our intent is that it can be used unpainted. However if you wanna go full on screen accurate then read on..
We recommend painting the rifle after assembly!
To get a nice finish you will need to take care of the print lines. This can be done in one of two ways.
- Sanding - It is possible to finish the kit with several iterations of sanding, priming, and then sanding again. This is the fun way, but we don't recommend you have that much fun!
- Resin Coating - The best way to finish our kits is to coat them with resin. This allows for smooth surfaces, adds a significant amount of strength to the prop, and can even add a little weight. We recommend XTC-3D. It is a resin specifically formulated to coat 3D printed parts and it makes for easy sanding. One box is enough for many projects. XTC-3D is our go to when finishing any 3D printed item! All of our kits were designed to be used with resin not sanded and primed!